Whether it’s a floral skirt, a black corset or even the fashion taboo of socks and sandals, the clothes we choose to wear are an expression of ourselves, suiting our mood and personal style. In these daily choices we act as an extension of the designer’s initial aim, bringing their message to life. We also form our own unique meaning behind these garments from the experiences we have wearing them. The clothing and accessories shown at the recent exhibition, ‘Dreaming of Chanel’, at the Queensland University of Technology Art Museum, are from the Darnell collection owned by Charlotte Smith. They are seen as exceptional designs, not just for their eternal beauty, but for the insight they give into society and women’s beliefs from the 19th century on. The pieces show what was valued, seen as attractive, appropriate dress, and thus highlight women’s role during this era.1 Here fashion has been extended from being mere design, to become part of the wearers’ and Western culture’s history.
As indicated by the exhibition’s title, many women dream of owning an original piece designed by one of the most influential women of the 20th century, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel.2 Her works are objects of desire, almost as much as Picasso’s or Warhol’s. ‘Unimpeded by social convention’, from the start of the 1920s she daringly moved away from excessive and elaborate clothes.3 Chanel popularised masculine and practical attire with her pants, sporting wear and suits designs. Releasing her first suits in her 1954 post-war comeback collection, Chanel focused on quality, comfort and elegance while still pushing boundaries.4 Today, women still covet the iconic and timeless classic pink ‘Chanel Suit’ (c.1960), its beauty... The rest of this article is available to subscribers of Eyeline